Neurocosmetics: A New Frontier in Skincare Formulation

Neurocosmetics: A New Frontier in Skincare Formulation

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This article by Dr. Renuka Thergoankar captures the cutting-edge nature of Neurocosmetics and highlights its relevance to the field of cosmetic chemistry.

Plato quotes “if there is anything worth living for, it is to behold beauty”. For centuries humans have born and died appreciating beauty. Human beings are surrounded by several articles which are beautiful and looking at which make them feel happy. Appreciating the beauty of fine arts, architecture, music etc is an ordinary phenomenon of human life which triggers affective and cognitive processes leading to sensations of pleasure and cognitive self-reward. Few things which are beautiful to one person may look hideous to another but at the same time make one feel happy and another unhappy. This is due to the perception of beauty observed by the neurons.

Neuron plays an important part in the beauty. Neuroaesthetics is a field which studies the biological bases underlying this aesthetic experiences. Such experiences may include the evaluation of facial attractiveness, the appraisal of paintings, sculptures and other works of art, and complex emotional reactions to beauty. Cognitive neuroscience provide greater understanding of how humans form and process the experience of beauty, from encoding hedonic value and long-term memory on the modulation of our individualised experience of beautiful stimuli. The neural network is responsible to provide this stimuli.

The body–brain axis is the main conductor of physiology. It senses and controls organ function, metabolism and nutritional state. The pro-inflammatory and anti-inflammatory cytokines communicate with distinct populations of vagal neurons to inform the brain of an emerging inflammatory response. In turn, the brain tightly modulates the course of the peripheral immune response. Current studies showed that the  selective manipulation  of the components of neuroimmune axis can effectively suppress the pro-inflammatory response while enhancing an anti-inflammatory state. The brain-evoked transformation of the course of an immune response offers new possibilities in the modulation of a wide range of immune disorders, from autoimmune diseases to cytokine storm and shock.

Skin is the most obvious exterior organ which gives the perception of beauty along with the facial features to others and to ourselves. Similarly the skin and the nervous system’s common origin deeply influences the relationship that we have with ourselves and others. The other sensorial parameter which affects the neural network is the sense of Touch. Touch is the sense linked to the skin, and requires constant contact between the object and the body, this contact translate into emotions which are perceived and communicated to others. Skin is in a very close relationship with the nervous system, this associations between nerve fibers and skin with respect to anatomical and physiological point of view, can be seen at cellular level.

Skin is made up of epidermis, dermis, the inner and thicker supporting layer of connective tissue of mesodermal origin. Many emotions like fear, anger, happiness etc are felt by the skin due to sensitive nervous or neuro-vegetative fibers starting from the spinal cords and ending in the skin. The skin, as a system for the surveillance of environmental changes (heat, humidity, etc.) and perception of the environment produces stimuli that, through mediators or Neurotransmitters are transmitted to the nervous system. These Neurotransmitters are chemical messengers, naturally synthesized by nervous fiber endings, that are also produced by skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes etc.) and the immune system. Keratinocytes, Langerhans cells, melanocytes, endothelial cells, fibroblasts, and other skin or immune system cells are modulated and controlled by nerves. Reciprocally, the skin can modulate neuronal activity and its growth.  Skin can interact with both endogenous and exogenous stimuli leading to response of the neuroimmune-cutaneous-endocrine (NICE) system.

The relation between the skin and the nerves is now being used as a tool for beauty enhancement, improvement of skin’s appearance and imperfections and younger skin. This cutting-edge trend goes beyond traditional cosmetics by enhancing the skin-brain connection, resulting in more effective skincare products. Neurocosmetics are designed to provide the efficacy not only on skin but also triggers the brain centres with the help of ingredients with structural analogies to endogenous neuromediators . This aids in signalling the cells to grow in a better way and provide antiageing properties.

Mode of action of Neurocosmetics:

Neurocosmetics: A New Frontier in Skincare Formulation

Neurocosmetic products can affect the brain’s responses to topical treatments by targeting nerve clusters sensitive to heat, cold, pain, itching, and/or pressure. They not only assist the skin in protecting, regenerating, and soothing itself, but they also have impact on the brain, giving a younger, calmer, and healthier skin. Various types of efficacies obtained with Neurocosmetic products are:

  1. Antiageing: Aids in providing radiant, healthier, less wrinkled, less inflammatory and soothing effect to the skin. Hence, when formulating Neurocosmetics, considering that skin cells have receptors that bind neurotransmitters to regulate their functions, the knowledge of the connection mechanisms between the skin and the brain should be useful in choosing functional ingredients able to interact with the neurons to give the efficacy. Example Monk’s Pepper, is a medicinal plant from the Mediterranean area and Asia that produces aromatic berries rich in Phyto-endorphins. Similarly a combination of blue lotus seed, poppy seed, and althea root exhibit a double neurocosmetic action: a “Botox-like” booster for reducing skin’s micro-tensions (wrinkles), and an enkephalinase inhibitor.
  1. Skin Soothing and strengthening studies for Sensitive skin: Sensitive skin is a syndrome defined by the occurrence of unpleasant sensations (stinging, burning, pain, pruritus, and tingling sensations) in response to stimuli that commonly does not cause such sensations. Cutaneous skin sensitivity refers to sensory inputs from the skin surface, and describes the neurobiological processes that confer to the skin the ability to “sense.” The skin can appear normal or be accompanied by erythema. Sensitive skin can affect all body locations, especially the face. Three main types of sensitive skin are:
  1. Skin with reduced barrier functions,
  2. Skin with inflammation and an intact barrier function
  3. Healthy individuals having skin that overreacts to environmental factors, detergents, cosmetics, or clothes

The overactivation of Transient Receptor Potential (TRP) receptors in the skin, leads to constant inflammation and local redness. The subfamily V member 1 Vanilloid Receptor (TRPV1) of TRP is involved in neuroinflammation. This receptor responds to different irritant stimuli—such as temperature (heat), pH (acids), and some chemical compounds (for example capsaicin)—by opening the transmembrane channel, allowing the influx of Ca2+ ions inside the cell. The result is the activation of the signalling pathway, which promotes the release of neuromediators able to induce inflammation, pain, and itching sensations. Generally the cooling ingredients work on a neurological level by giving a feeling of freshness such as menthol.

  1. Stress reducing and barrier protection : Stress is defined as the body’s response to a whole range of external and psychological factors that disrupt homeostasis. Pollution, UV radiation, blue light, insufficient sleep, social media, relationships, work-related worries, working hours are few stressors.; subsequently, the brain sends biochemical signals to the body, including the skin, producing physiological effects . The exposure to stress is prolonged, skin cells do not stop the production of cortisol, also known as the stress hormone; thus, its levels remain elevated, causing several damaging consequences. In this regard, the breakdown of skin homeostasis takes place, inducing inflammation and a visibly tired look. The enzyme 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 (11β-HSD1) converts inactive cortisone into biologically active cortisol and, as a result, under conditions of stress, the levels of cortisol in the skin increase, driving collagen to atrophy and reducing cell growth. increase in cortisol levels could affect the epidermal barrier.
Neurocosmetics: A New Frontier in Skincare Formulation

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Only when a feedback mechanism is established does the body return to normal physiological conditions: the stress hormones and the related consequences are eliminated, restoring homeostasis. Few Neurocosmetic ingredients are examples of Schinus terebinthifolia extract and Sacha inchi oil can increase the release of dopamine by skin neurons, leading to two effects: the enhancement of skin blood supply and the skin barrier performance, and improvement of the complexion(Bousquet, M.; Saint-Pierre, M.; Julien, C.; Salem, N., Jr.; Cicchetti, F.; Calon, F. Beneficial effects of dietary omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acid on toxin-induced neuronal degeneration in an animal model of Parkinson’s disease. FASEB J. 2008, 22, 1213–1225)

Table 1: Ingredients with Neurocosmetic properties

Neuro Cosmetic Ingredient

Efficacy

Source

CBD(Cannabidiol), CBG (Cannabigerol)

Anti-inflammatory and Calming

Hemp

GABA (Gama Aminobutyric Acid)

soothe the skin and reduce fine lines.

Fermented Foods, tea etc

Peptides

Antiaging, collagen production and also strengthen the skin barrier

Botulinum toxin, Acetyl hexapeptide-3 and -8—synthetic peptides

 etc

Adaptogens

maintaining cortisol levels 

Ashwagandha etc

Endorphin Boosting

feeling of relaxation

Orange, Lavender etc

Antioxidants

Antiaging

Melatonins, Polyphenols from berries etc
    Neurocosmetics: A New Frontier in Skincare Formulation

    Image used for illustrative purposes only

    Market for Neurocosmetics was approximately US$1.8 Billion in 2023 and is growing at a CAGR of 7.9%.  Though it is growing at a faster pace it is facing its own challenges and controversies, wherein the products have been proven to have an amazing sensorial appeal but the efficacy with respect to its psychological aspect is still not completely proven.

      Author : Dr. Renuka Thergoankar

      Dr Renuka Thergoankar has served the world of Cosmetics in India for over two decades. Firstly through teaching positions at LAD & Smt R P College, Nagpur, Nikalas Mahila Mahavidyalaya, Nagpur and KET’s V. G. Vaze College, Mumbai as Professor and Head of Department, Cosmetics and Perfumery along with product development, formulation and research  Consultation for several Small, Medium and Multinational brands. She has won and been on the jury of numerous national and international awards. She holds several patents and has several published papers in national and international journals. She is also on the panel of several Government committees like BIS, CMaP, Flavour & Fragrance Committee of India and is the  President of Indian Society of Cosmetic Chemists (ISCC) and a Life member of OTAI west zone. She is the founder and Director of R & D Global Consultants, a consultancy dedicated to Technical research and product development for brands from India and abroad. She has won many laurels for her innovative approach.