Spicules are emerging as a fascinating ingredient in cosmetic science—especially for brands and formulators exploring non-invasive skin renewal and active delivery systems.

Spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures derived primarily from marine sponges (phylum Porifera). In cosmetics, they’re used to stimulate skin regeneration, enhance ingredient penetration, and deliver a gentle microneedling effect. Spicules are extracted from marine or freshwater sponges; often listed as Hydrolyzed Sponge in INCI. Typically made of silica or calcium carbonate, depending on sponge type , they are tiny sharp crystalline shapes that can be refined for gentler application.

Spicules create micro-injuries in the skin’s surface, triggering accelerated cell turnover ,collagen and elastin production and improved texture and elasticity. They also form microchannels that allow active ingredients—like peptides, growth factors, or botanical extracts—to penetrate deeper into the epidermis.

Spicules are used in formulating peeling ampoules & masks for exfoliation and skin renewal ; Brightening creams targeting pigmentation and post-acne marks;  Anti-aging serums designed to boost collagen and reducing fine lines and in Salon treatments , as a natural alternative to microneedling facials

Formulators , while working with Spicules should consider particle size as larger spicules may cause irritation ;  Include soothing agents like Centella Asiatica or Panthenol to balance the exfoliation; and ensure UV protection and hydration after use products  due to increased skin sensitivity.

Spicules are gaining traction in K-beauty, dermocosmetics, and salon-grade formulations for their dual function: exfoliation + delivery. For brands focused on skin renewal without harsh acids or devices, they offer a compelling, nature-derived alternative.