Comparative Assessments of New Hair-Straightening Cosmetic Formulations – Key Findings

Hair has long been considered important for consumers’ self-esteem, and the cosmetics industry has continuously worked to develop products to improve both hair scalp and fibre quality while ensuring they are safe and effective. The study conducted by scientists from the University of São Paulo (UNESP) and the Advanced Research Center in Medicine (CEPAM) at UNILAGO aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of new hair-straightening formulations specifically designed for wavy type 2 hair.
Abstract
Hair straighteners are among the most technically complex products to be safely and effectively developed, and this challenge has increased even more with the higher incidence of resistant hair among consumers. This underscores the importance of studying new active ingredients, combinations, and carrier formulations to improve performance without compromising safety. Researchers from various Brazilian institutions compared eight hair-straightening formulations with different active ingredients and/or concentrations to develop new, safer, and more effective texture modifiers.
Methodology
The study involved the development and comparison of eight hair-straightening formulations with different active ingredients and/or concentrations. These formulations were tested against control treatments (virgin and bleached hair) regarding mechanical and thermal resistance, cuticle morphology, hair shine, and fibre diameter. The formulations included combinations of ammonium thioglycolate, amino methyl propanol thioglycolate, sodium cysteamine, and sodium thioglycolate.
Results
The results showed that all formulations were safe and effective at straightening hair. Specifically, 13.3% and 9.4% ammonium thioglycolate (G03 and G04) were more suitable for wavy and curly hair, 12.5% and 7.9% amino methyl propanol thioglycolate (G05 and G06) for finer or chemically processed hair, 5% and 4% sodium cysteamine (G07 and G08) for curly and tight curly hair to control volume, and 2% and 1% of a combination of ammonium thioglycolate with sodium thioglycolate (G09 and G10) for more resistant wavy and curly hair.
Discussion
The study highlights the importance of developing new active ingredients and formulations to address the specific needs of different hair types. The findings suggest that the new formulations can provide safer and more effective hair straightening solutions, which could be beneficial for both consumers and the cosmetics industry.
Conclusion
The comparative assessments of new hair-straightening cosmetic formulations on wavy type 2 hair conducted by scientists from UNESP and CEPAM at UNILAGO demonstrate the potential of these formulations to improve hair straightening efficacy and safety. Further research and development in this area could lead to the creation of more advanced and tailored hair care products.
Keywords
Hair straightening, hair discoloration, hair fiber, oxireductor straightening, hair efficacy assessment.
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