Decoding Vegan Cosmetics

Decoding Vegan Cosmetics

Image used for illustrative purposes only

The global vegan beauty market is experiencing significant growth. As of 2023, the market was valued at approximately USD 18.03 billion and is projected to reach USD 32.56 billion by 2032, with a CAGR of 6.82% during the forecast period. This article by Dr. Renuka Thergoankar delves into the concept of Vegan, its significance, and how formulators can harness this trend to develop groundbreaking skincare solutions.

All over the world we are looking at mushrooming products and Brands  which are Green, Clean, Organic and Vegan. Each of these words have a different concept and meaning when related to cosmetics. A Green cosmetic product is the one using all natural ingredients whereas a clean cosmetic product will be using either a combination of natural and synthetic or only synthetic but safe harmless ingredients. An Organic product is the one where in all the ingredients and processes used to create the products are certified organic.

Vegan brands are increasing globally due to rising concern  for animal derived ingredients, safety and Sustainability awareness. According to the Vegan Society (U.K.-based oldest registered charity which issues vegan certifications) approximately 2,500 companies have registered over 65,000 products globally, of which 30,000 products fall under the cosmetics & toiletries category. The global vegan cosmetics market was valued at USD 18.03 billion in 2023. The market is projected to be worth USD 19.21 billion in 2024 and reach USD 32.56 billion by 2032. Maximum Vegan brands are being launched in Europe. Several companies and celebrities are launching Vegan brands. In November 2021, Harry Styles, actor, songwriter, and singer, unveiled ‘Pleasing’, vegan beauty brand, comprising of  vegan skincare products and nail polishes. In  September 2022, Stella McCartney, a U.K.-based fashion designer, launched vegan skincare Brand in collaboration with LVMH. India is also not behind and has seen few brands like Organic Harvest and Plum who have launched 100% vegan Skin, Hair and Colour cosmetic products in last few years.

 For Indians the word  Vegan is very familiar and simple but we all have different version of meanings as per our convenience. But in reality “What is Vegan? “ As per the Oxford Dictionary “a person who does not eat any food derived from animals and who typically does not use other animal products” is a vegan. In  reality” Veganism is a philosophy and way of living which seeks to exclude—as far as is possible and practicable—all forms of exploitation of, and cruelty to, animals for food, clothing or any other purpose; and by extension, promotes the development and use of animal-free alternatives for the benefit of animals, humans and the environment. In dietary terms it denotes the practice of dispensing with all products derived wholly or partly from animals.”

Vegans avoid exploiting animals for any purpose, with compassion being a key reason many choose a vegan lifestyle. The vegan concept has been popularised by different religions as well as American Society of Veganism who believes in ahimsa and has few lakh followers.

Vegan beauty aligns with the principles of sustainability by promoting eco-friendly practices, reducing carbon footprint, and minimizing environmental impact.
Vegan Cosmetics are products where in all the ingredients used in cosmetic products are not tested on animals neither are made using any animal derived ingredient. In cosmetics though the ingredients are mostly from non animal sources but there are few listed ingredients which are obtained from animal and insect sources:

  1. Bees Wax: obtained from Bees
  2. Lanolin: Obtained from Wool of the Sheep
  3. Carmine: Obtained from insects
  4. Keratin: Obtained from bovine animals
  5. Collagen: Obtained from marine animals
  6. Snail Musin: Obtained from Snail’s
  7. Honey: obtained from Bees
  8. Gelatin: Obtained from bovine animals
  9. Milk Protein: Obtained from bovine animals
  10. Milk Powder: Obtained from bovine animals
  11. Curd Powder: Obtained from bovine animals
  12. Fish Oil: Obtained from Marine animals
  13. Squalene: Obtained from bovine animals
  14. Silk Amino acids: Obtained from Insects
  15. Lactic acid: Obtained from bovine animals
  16. Elastin: Obtained from bovine animals
  17. Glucosamine: Obtained from animals
  18. Propolis: Obtained from insects
  19. Stem Cells : Obtained from Cattles, humans
  20. Exosomes: Obtained from Cattles, humans

Decoding Vegan Cosmetics

Image used for illustrative purposes only

Similarly many times the ingredients used as well as the cosmetic products are tested for safety and efficacy on animals which does not go with the concept of Veganism. Various animals on whom the testings are done are Rats, Rabbits, dogs etc.

While designing a vegan product one has to consider several aspects. These aspects are : 

  1. Ingredients:
  • The ingredients used must not be from animal or from any insect origin.
  • Always take a vegan certificate from the suppliers before purchasing an ingredient.
  • Check for the Source of Origin of the ingredient like animal derived GMO etc
  • Check MSDS,SDS and TDS thoroughly before selecting the ingredient
  • Check for the shelf life of Product
  1. Finished product:
  • Cruelty Free Formulations
  • Should not be tested for efficacy or safety on animals.
  • As per Indian regulations Animal Testing is banned in India and hence Indian manufactured products are non animal tested.
  • Check for Vegan Certification or Symbol
  • Check for brands supporting Free Trade

Hence Ethical considerations in vegan beauty involve cruelty-free formulations, avoiding animal testing, and supporting fair trade and responsible sourcing of ingredients.

  1. Vegan Certification:

The standard certificates are BeVeg from US, Vegan Society Trademark in the UK

 The Vegan Society has standards for Vegan certification.

According to these standards, a product can be certified as “vegan” if the following four requirements are met:

  • No animal ingredientsor ingredients derived from animals
  • No animal testingof the ingredients or of the finished product
  • No genetically-modified organisms involving animal genesor animal-derived substances
  • Compliance with kitchen and hygiene standards

 Europe: The Vegan Trademark is the authentic international vegan standard and is managed by The Vegan Society; the charity that created the word ‘vegan’ back in 1944. The Vegan Trademark is renewed on a yearly basis
 

Vegan

India: in India FSSAI gives Vegan Registration for food. But for cosmetics one has to connect with various accreditation agencies and Labs like SGS, PETA, etc who helps to give a vegan certificate to the brands. The various certificates obtained in India are Vegan Society India, Vegan Certification, PETA Approved Vegan, Ahimsa Certificate

Vegan Certification for Cosmetics, ISO 17065

 USA: BeVeg Vegan & cruelty-free certification for cosmetics, make-up, hair and skin care, personal care, toiletries, perfumes.

BeVeg

4. Vegan Product Advertising

These products come with perceived notions and knowledge, hence easier to advertise

  • Always check the ingredient details before creating an advertisement
  • Native ads on social media advertise better veganism concepts
  • Engaging Tutorial concepts on Veganism can be created
  • Pinterest ads grab the customers’ attention easily due to High resolution vegan images
  • Community creation for Leveraging Vegan Brand experience
  • Personal Branding

5. Vegan beauty Trends

  • Cruelty Free Approach
  • Edible Beauty Vegan Products
  • Plastic Free Vegan Products
  • Marine Beauty Products

 Hence today Vegan is supposed to be a Fashionable word which aims to create a positive visualisation of a vegan world in order to show people the benefits they could expect to see in terms of animal rights, the climate, biodiversity, land use, and human health. 

Sheela Iyer

Author : Dr. Renuka Thergoankar

Dr Renuka Thergoankar has served the world of Cosmetics in India for over two decades. Firstly through teaching positions at LAD & Smt R P College, Nagpur, Nikalas Mahila Mahavidyalaya, Nagpur and KET’s V. G. Vaze College, Mumbai as Professor and Head of Department, Cosmetics and Perfumery along with product development, formulation and research  Consultation for several Small, Medium and Multinational brands. She has won and been on the jury of numerous national and international awards. She holds several patents and has several published papers in national and international journals. She is also on the panel of several Government committees like BIS, CMaP, Flavour & Fragrance Committee of India and is the  President of Indian Society of Cosmetic Chemists (ISCC) and a Life member of OTAI west zone. She is the founder and Director of R & D Global Consultants, a consultancy dedicated to Technical research and product development for brands from India and abroad. She has won many laurels for her innovative approach.  

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