L’Oreal files patents for Suncare Formulations

Global skincare major L’Oreal has filed separate patents detailing sunscreen formulations recently. The three patents filed by the French major include a light feel high SPF variant, a formula that simultaneously protects and whitens skin and a protecting and perfecting double action formulation through layering.

Light feel high SPF

In its patent for a sunscreen with high SPF, the skincare company said developing a stable high SPF formulation remains a challenge for the industry. Besides using more UV filters in the formulations requires more fillers to ensure good sensorials. But this makes the formulation unstable. The present invention is directed to new sunscreen compositions with high SPF, comprising (a) a combination of at least one anionic surfactant and one non- ionic co-surfactant, (b) UV filters and (c) pigments. The composition of the present invention is stable over the time, also presents a high level of UV-protection in order to protect the skin from the damages of the sun, easy application, good spreadability, less white film, less shine, which does not melt on high temperature in the face, has an imperceptible touch and combines high protection with smoothness to the skin. In this formulation -the SPF range is between 30-80, 50% of the weight is contributed by UV filters and 15% by pigments.

Double action formulation through layering

The second patent relates to methods for boosting SPF and UVA-PF while simultaneously improving the appearance of skin. The company said ‘Most individuals are exposed to large amounts of ultraviolet (UV) radiation throughout their lifetimes due primarily to sunlight exposure. Sunlight includes two types of UV rays: long wave ultraviolet A (UVA) and short wave ultraviolet B (UVB), both of which can damage the skin.UVA rays penetrate the skin more deeply than UVB rays and have long been known to play a major part in skin ageing and wrinkling (photo-ageing), but until recently scientists believed that UVA rays did not cause significant damage to the epidermis (outermost skin layer) where most skin cancers occur. Studies over the past two decades, however, show that UVA radiation damages skin cells called keratinocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis. Both UVA and UVB radiation contribute to skin damage that accelerates the appearance of ageing. The methods of the current invention provide a surprising improvement in sun protection factor (“SPF”) and ultraviolet-A protection factor (“UVA-PF”) while simultaneously improving the appearance of skin. The methods include layering onto the skin a skin-perfecting composition and a sunscreen composition. The surprising improvement in SPF and UVA-PF occurs regardless of the order of application, i.e., the skin-perfecting composition can be applied first followed by the application of the sunscreen compositions or vice versa. In addition to boosting the SPF and UVA-PF, which provides full-spectrum photo-protection to the skin, the methods provide and an immediate and dramatic improvement to the appearance of the skin, for example, by reducing the appearance of wrinkles, eye bags, pores, and skin imperfections such as scarring, dark spots (and uneven skin tone), dark circles, and roughness. This results from the application of the skin-perfecting compositions, which includes film-forming polymers, pressure-sensitive adhesive polymers, and soft focus powder. Unlike other products, the films formed on the skin do not dry-out, whiten, crack, or peel. Instead, they remain flexible (elastic), durable, and comfortable. Moreover, the compositions (and resulting films) hydrate and protect the underlying skin. Soft focus powders are useful for providing blurring effects, which provides skin with a smoother appearance, for example, by reducing the difference in luminosity between the valley and the edges of wrinkles and imperfections. The sunscreen compositions typically include (i) at least one organic UV filter; and (ii) a cosmetically acceptable carrier, which can be water- or oil-based.

A combination that Protects and Whitens skin

The third invention relates to a cosmetic composition to be used on the skin comprising the combination of a particular whitening system, a UVA filter system, and a combination of antioxidants for effectively whitening the skin, in particular the skin of the face, while also protecting these materials from the damages caused by UVA radiation. The present invention is directed to provide a sun care composition for whitening the skin, said composition comprising a whitening system and a UVA filter system for progressive whitening and preventing dark-spots on human skin. Particularly, it is an objective of the present invention to provide, as a single formulation, a product with the association of two different mechanisms against the action of the sun in the development of skin melasma. The first action comes from the activity of the UVA filters of the UVA filter system and the second action comes from the activity of the whitening actives of the whitening system. In other words, the sun care composition of the present invention not only whitens pre-existing melasma/dark spots, having a progressive depigmentation effect due to its prolonged use but also prevents the formation of new melasma/dark spots on the skin. The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found that the sun care composition for whitening and preventing the formation of dark areas also have a progressive whitening effect. The sun care composition for whitening the skin of the present invention comprises: (a) a UVA filter system; (b) a whitening system comprising neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, capryloyl salicylic acid and dipotassium glycyrrhizate; and (c) a combination of at least two antioxidants selected from at least one vitamin and at least one vegetal extract, wherein the at least one vitamin is selected from tocopherol, and the at least one vegetal extract is selected from Zingiber officinale (ginger) root extract, Sanguisorba officinalis root extract, Cinnamomum cassia bark extract or their mixtures. The composition according to the invention provides depigmentation results regarding dark spots and/or melasmas on the skin while protecting these materials from further damages provoked by the sun, particularly the UVA radiation.

 High Stability Waterless Sunscreen

L’Oreal also filed a patent for a high stability waterless sunscreen using emulsified carnauba wax. The disclosure relates to anhydrous sunscreen compositions having enhanced antioxidant properties, as well as high Sun Protection Factors (SPF), comprising silica aerogel, liquid carnauba wax and a UV filter system. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection (UVA/UVB). And it must have a satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application. The anhydrous cosmetic compositions have a high content of fatty compounds, such as vegetal and mineral-based waxes and oils. Those fatty compounds are susceptible to oxidation, especially when exposed to high temperatures, resulting in changes on the colour of the product, as well as modifications on the olfactive properties thereof. Thus, there has been a need for an anhydrous sunscreen composition having enhanced antioxidative properties. Considering the current drawbacks of the state of the art, the inventors formulated an anhydrous sunscreen composition by using solid Carnauba wax, which is known for its antioxidative properties and has been being widely used on cosmetic applications. However, it was observed that the direct use of solid carnauba wax was unsatisfactory since changes in the original colour of the composition were still noted. Therefore, in view of the persisting problems, the inventors tested anhydrous sunscreen compositions formulated with liquid carnauba wax that surprisingly showed enhanced antioxidant properties and high SPF values.

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